Sin embargo, antes de embarcarse en el camino de dominar el arte de la construcción de la bobina, es crucial poseer un atomizador adecuado para el propósito. Normalmente, los atomizadores que facilitan la sustitución del elemento calefactor se denominan RTA o RBA. Además, se puede considerar la inclusión de una base RDTA. Este último es esencialmente una combinación de un gotero con un tanque para e-liquid.
Tipos de materiales para el bobinado
Con el fin de preparar el atomizador para su uso, se necesitan ciertos materiales, como el algodón absorbente y el alambre de la bobina. El algodón absorbente funciona como una mecha, colocada dentro del elemento calefactor. Al calentarse, la mezcla líquida se vaporiza desde el interior.
Materiales para la resistencia
Los vapers utilizan una variedad de materiales para el auto-roscado de sus bobinas:
- Nichrome, que es una aleación asequible de níquel y cromo que se utiliza comúnmente para la fabricación de bobinas.
- A "Coiler" is a tool designed in the shape of a stylus with various diameters. Its purpose is to simplify the process of threading a coil. If you don’t have a coiler, you can use a drill bit with the appropriate diameter.
The coiling process for both options is similar and is carried out in the following way.
- Before starting your work, it’s important to wash your hands and tools, and then degrease them with alcohol. This step ensures that the absorbent cotton doesn’t absorb any foreign odors and that it doesn’t come into contact with any skin oils which could affect the taste when vaporized. This also applies to the tools to prevent inhaling any steam with the aroma from the storage box.
- To soften and make more pliable wire, such as nickel or titanium, it should not be burned as this will decrease its performance. However, for wires that are noticeably springy and characterized by their stiffness, such as other materials, you can use a turbo lighter, gas burner, or gas stove burner to burn them. This process will make them softer and more pliable.
- To clean titanium or nickel wire, simply wipe it well with a cotton disk and alcohol. Other materials do not require wiping and can be burned instead.
- Begin by using a drill of the necessary diameter or a "coiler" to wind the wire onto it, either "coil to coil" for a microcoil or with a small distance of about 1 mm for a speyscoil. In the event that the coils are uneven, there’s no need to worry as it can be easily corrected later on.
- Once you have wound enough coils according to the calculations from the online calculator, the microcoil will be ready for use. As for the speyscoil, you will need to crimp it around the "coiler" using pliers and stretch it slightly to ensure a uniform shape. At this point, your heating element is now ready to be installed.
- Afterwards, it is necessary to install the completed coil into the vaporizer. If there is a need to replace the coil, the first step would be to remove the old one. To do this, use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws located at the base of the atomizer and remove the unwanted coil. Then, carefully slide the ends of the wire from the new coil underneath the screws. For convenience, you can choose to leave the "coiler" tool aside.
- To ensure a secure fit, fasten the bolts and carefully position the spring using the coiler or tweezers. It should be precisely centered between the two contacts. Keep in mind that the closer the spring is to the center hole, the gentler the vaporization will be. Conversely, placing it higher will increase the intensity of the throat hit. Be careful not to let the wire come into contact with any elements of the base, except for the designated contacts.
- Using wire cutters, trim any excess wire so that it does not touch the base cover when twisted. Failing to do so can result in a short circuit.
- To initiate the coil, press the power button while the mod is set to a power range of 20 to 30 watts. This should be done briefly to ensure even heating of the coil. The coil should change color from the center to the edges, turning red. If any areas of the coil do not reach the red color, you can use ceramic tweezers to pass over the spring just like you would with a heating radiator and an iron key. After a few passes, the short circuit between the coils will be eliminated, creating a small gap, allowing for even heating of the coil.
- Take a piece of cotton or a cotton disk and remove the top layer. Make sure to leave a fluffy layer. Place the cotton wick inside the spring, allowing it to move freely from side to side.
- Trim any excess cotton, leaving a few millimeters around the edges to ensure it doesn’t touch the sides of the base. Screw on the base cover and double-check to ensure the wick isn’t caught on the threads.
By making your own heating element for the clearomizer in an electronic cigarette, you have the ability to adjust the flavor and vapor production by manipulating the number of coil turns and the cross-section of the wire. The coil that is most popular among vapers is one with a resistance of 0.3 ohm. This coil is typically made with thin wire and a low number of turns. Ultimately, the decision of which winding is better is up to you, as each individual may have different preferences when it comes to vaping. Providing a universal recommendation on this matter is simply not possible.
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