What types of stitches there are on modern sewing machines

Every sewing machine is like a mini workshop at home – they offer such a variety of functions. And the different types of stitches that can be done on a sewing machine play a significant role in these capabilities. It’s fascinating to learn which stitches are truly essential, and which ones can be done without. Some modern sewing machine models have up to a hundred stitches or even more. Certain stitches are used frequently, while others are only necessary for decorative finishing touches.

Frequently used types of stitches

Different types of stitches are referred to by various names, the most popular of which are the straight stitch and zigzag stitch. Below is a photograph displaying the standard panel of stitch options for the Astralux sewing machine. Alongside the straight stitch and zigzag stitch, other commonly used stitches include:

• overlock imitation
• stitches for elastic materials
• countersunk stitches
• stitches for lining
• buttonholes

Special feet are often necessary to properly execute these stitches. These feet are usually included with the sewing machine or can be purchased separately.

Even with a basic model, you will be able to handle a wide range of fabrics – from knits to leather. These machines are capable of performing various tasks, such as sewing zippers, buttons, and buttonholes (although the latter is less common).

For beginners, it may be helpful to have more detailed information about the different types of stitches available, including simple and zigzag stitches. Some of these stitches can be used for decorative purposes as well. To get a better understanding of the stitches your sewing machine offers, refer to the stitch panel.

1. The straight stitch is used in various sewing operations.
2. When additional strength is required in the seam, a double or even triple reinforced thread can be used. It can also be used to replicate the appearance of a thick thread, such as when sewing jeans. This is a good option for stretch fabric as it helps prevent the seam from tearing. Alternatively, for stretch fabric, an elastic thread can be used instead.
3. Now let’s talk about zigzags. While regular zigzag stitches are commonly used for edging and decorative stitching, the elastic version is more stretchable and is ideal for attaching elastic bands and sewing curtains. Elastic zigzag stitches also work well for darning and embroidery.
4. In the realm of sportswear, a unique stitch called the "double cross" is often used. This stitch not only provides added durability but can also be utilized for decorative purposes.
5. The open overlock stitch is a mere imitation of a basting stitch. However, it can effectively be used for stitching and treating the edges, especially with stretchable fabrics.
6. The closed overlock seams serve the purpose of processing the fabric edges, similar to a jersey. This method is also great for preventing the edges from crumbling in materials that are prone to this issue.
7. Cellular stitching is both decorative and functional. On one hand, it is perfect for ornamental edge processing. On the other hand, it works well with elastic thread, which can be placed in the bobbin. This technique is suitable for stretchable fabrics.
8. The joining stitch is ideal for stretchable fabrics. Apart from its decorative effect, such as in patchwork, its main purpose is to join materials together.
9. The decorative elastic stitch can be utilized for sewing together fabric and can also be used for overlapping pieces, including leather, without any issues. Furthermore, it can be employed for decorative finishing purposes.
10. The pullover stitch, which creates a compacted edge, is ideal for creating stretching and swaddling stitches on knitted items. It is typically used to finish the left edge of the product.
11. The countersunk version of the stitch is specifically designed for working with dense, non-stretchy fabrics. When using this stitch, it’s important to fold the fabric correctly. For elastic materials, a corresponding alternative should be used.
12. The festoon stitch is not only useful for decorative finishing, but it can also be used to sew and trim the edges of a fabric.
13. The linen loop is known as the operative stitch, which can be classified into two categories: semi-automatic (created in approximately four steps) and loop-automatic (employed in the sewing of shirts, blouses, bed linen, etc.).

Blindstitch

This section consists of stitches that are used to join layers of fabric together, while remaining completely invisible on the front of the item. This type of stitch is commonly used in the construction of toys, women’s clothing, or any situation where a visible seam could negatively impact the appearance of the finished product. The stitch securely connects all layers of fabric, but does so in a way that is concealed within the materials themselves. The stitch may slightly emerge on the front side in discreet locations, such as inside a bend or fold, or it may be completely hidden from view.

To achieve a blindstitch on a sewing machine, it is necessary to utilize a specialized foot. This technique is commonly employed when dealing with delicate fabrics and in instances where a visible seam would detract from the overall appearance, such as when hemming trousers and dresses.

Proficiency in this mode of operation comes with practice. It is advisable to first practice on a scrap piece of fabric before attempting the blindstitch on the actual garment.

Basting stitch

Basting stitches are utilized to secure the fabric edge from unraveling. The majority of fabrics, particularly those that are thin, have a natural tendency to fray when cut. This means that if the edge is left untreated, any seam placed along it will easily come apart when subjected to even slight tension.

When done by hand, this treatment is known as a buttonhole stitch. In machine sewing, it is also a variation of the buttonhole stitch.

Electronic machines are the key to producing the finest basting stitches. These stitches are flawlessly even, giving a professional appearance, and require minimal effort on the part of the craftswoman. All stitch parameters are programmed beforehand, so all that’s needed is to gather the materials (with the quality of the thread being important), set up the machine, and get ready to start working. From there, the machine takes care of nearly everything autonomously.

Various types of basting stitches are available on a standard sewing machine.

There are also other tasks that can be accomplished using this mode, such as creating buttonholes or additional loops, as well as repairing frayed spots in jeans.

Decorative stitches

Decorative stitches, as their name suggests, serve the purpose of enhancing the appearance of sewn items. Rather than connecting the different parts of a product, these stitches are often applied to a separate section. They can take the form of unique patterns, intricate combinations, or even vibrant embroidery.

When working with decorative stitches, it is important to use high-quality synthetic threads. These threads are durable, resistant to fading, and create a smooth and silky finish. On the other hand, cotton threads tend to fray easily and may change color frequently.

Additionally, it is crucial to properly set up and adjust the sewing machine for decorative stitching. Each stitch should be flawless, without any skipped sections, loose threads, or other imperfections. The zigzag stitch serves as the foundation for decorative stitches, and other variations are created by adjusting the stitch length and width.

Varieties of decorative stitches on the Pfaff Expression sewing machine

Decorative stitches are commonly used to embellish children’s clothing, bedding, and table linens. In the world of teenage fashion, decorative stitches can often be found on denim garments. Another popular choice is embroidering letters and inscriptions.

When it comes to creating decorative stitches on delicate fabrics, it can be quite challenging as the thread tends to pull and weigh down the material. To prevent these issues, it is advisable to place a thin stabilizing fabric underneath.

Elastic seam

Not all sewing machines have the capability to work with knitwear. To accomplish this, you need to use elastic stitches such as the elastic stitch, overlock stitch, overlock and edge stitch, zigzag stitch, double stitch, and others. Typically, overlock machines, overlockers, and spacer machines are used for working with knitwear.

One of the main distinctions between elastic stitches and regular stitches is that elastic stitches are also stretchable. When the fabric is stretched, the stitch does not break but allows for stretching. Therefore, regular cotton threads are not suitable for this type of work. High-quality, smooth, and slightly elastic threads are necessary. In theory, the machine can stitch any threads that fit in it, but the desired result will not be achieved as the seam will not stretch.

You can create a stretchy seam exclusively on a dedicated machine equipped with elastic threads.

Double stitch

When it comes to the front side, a double stitch is indistinguishable from a simple stockinette stitch. However, on the wrong side, this stitch is used along the tapered seam. The unique aspect of sewing with a double stitch is that it can only be done in a straight line. It is completed in two steps: firstly, a traditional seam is sewn along the edge, and secondly, a parallel seam is sewn along a specially folded edge. Despite its multi-step process and complexity, this stitch is incredibly strong and is commonly used for the following applications:

• sewing bed linens, particularly pillowcases and duvet covers;
• sewing inner pockets into pants and shorts;
• sewing cuffs on long-sleeved garments;
• finishing the free edge in garments made of delicate materials that have a tendency to "creep" (e.g. tulle).

The use of double stitching enables the creation of a durable bond between different components.

Essentially, the double seam is intended for applications that involve substantial physical stress and strain. It is particularly suitable for sewing household bags or adding an extra pocket to a lady’s handbag.