What stitches can be performed on an overlock

Using an overlock machine allows you to create flawlessly sewn products. With its versatile capabilities, the machine can effectively trim fabric edges, preventing any unwanted fraying, while also seamlessly stitching and embellishing the item. This wide range of functions is made possible by the array of specialized overlock stitches available.

Classic overlock stitches

Let’s take a closer look at the various stitches that can be created using the overlock machine.

1. The 2-thread stitch is primarily used for very thin fabrics that require minimal thread. As most overlock machines are designed for 3 or more threads, it’s important to check if the model has a converter. The converter is a special attachment that covers the upper buttonhole. This particular stitch requires only one needle and one lower buttonhole.
2. The 3-thread stitch is the most commonly used stitch and can be performed on any modern or older overlock machine. If the 3-thread stitch is sufficient for your sewing needs, it can be a cost-effective option as these machines are more affordable. The stitching process is straightforward: the needle creates the top stitches, the lower looper forms a parallel stitch on the underside, and the upper looper interlocks the thread to form a spiral pattern with two stitches. This versatile stitch can be used on any type of fabric.
3. The 4-thread overlock stitch not only trims the edges but also sews fabric seams together. It is particularly useful when working with knitwear. This stitch is created using two needles and two loopers. It produces strong, secure stitches that are well-suited for elastic fabrics.
4. On a modern overlock, a 5-thread stitch can be done using 3 needles.
5. Additionally, an overlock equipped with a special bottom buttonhole for chain stitch can also perform this stitch.

This particular stitch is particularly useful when working with delicate fabrics that can be quite difficult to handle. It is especially helpful when sewing bulky items such as zippers, brooches, and large buttons into these fabrics.

The 5-thread stitch adds extra durability to the seam and is commonly used in the construction of women’s summer blouses made of materials like crepe, chiffon, organza, and other delicate fabrics.

Decorative stitches

The latest overlock models offer an extended range of options for creating one-of-a-kind garments, as they feature a variety of decorative stitch types that add a unique touch.

Flatlock

The genuine Flatlock stitch can only be stitched using embroidery machines and overlockers. On an overlock, there is merely a simulation of the stitch, achieved by making specific adjustments.

To achieve this stitch, the tension of the needle thread is loosened while the tension on the lower buttonholes is maximized. By utilizing Flatlock stitching, fabric components can be effectively joined. When two layers of fabric are joined together, a stitch that resembles the Flatlock stitch is formed. However, it is not very durable when worn and tends to split quickly in areas of heavy strain. Consequently, it is seldom used in sewing. This stitch is more suitable for embellishing embossed elements of clothing.

Role (hemming)

It is referred to as a roller stitch or opikovka, and it can be achieved by adjusting the tensioners of the overlock machine. The technique creates a twisted inward stitch that secures the edge of the fabric.

By using this technique, you can add more waves to ruffles by inserting fishing line, or make the edge of a skirt more elastic. This method is commonly used to secure the edge of a skirt and enhance the fullness of the hem. It allows you to both finish the fabric edges and attach the ruffles of the garment. The roller stitch is frequently employed in the construction of dance costumes. It also produces a beautiful effect on embellished tulle and knitwear pieces.

To execute a roller stitch, you need to reduce the stitch length and adjust the stitch width. This can be achieved by following these steps: the overlock machine has a tongue located near the carbon plate, which acts as a barrier against fabric twisting. By sewing without the tab, you can create the desired roller stitch. In doing so, you will produce a beautifully twisted seam.

Double-sided

Advanced machines equipped with multiple thread capabilities allow for the creation of a flat stitch with topstitching. By interweaving 5-10 tucked threads, beautiful stitches can be achieved, resulting in stunning designs on the fabric. Typically, this double-sided stitch is used for decorative purposes rather than for edge finishing.

When considering the capabilities of an overlock machine and the quality of basting stitches, it is advisable to purchase an additional basting device along with the sewing machine. Choosing the right sewing technique will enhance the realization of sewing projects and help achieve successful design outcomes.

Recommendations for selecting finishing stitches

The overlocking machine is equipped with specific components that provide maximum flexibility in creating basting stitches. Its additional attachments, including a cut width adjuster, a knife, and a sleeve platform, set it apart from a standard sewing machine when it comes to processing fabric edges.

Remember these important points:

1. When choosing an overlock for high-quality seam finishing, opt for a 2-3 thread machine. For decorative stitching, it’s recommended to use a 4-thread overlock.
2. The differential feed function enables you to work with highly elastic fabrics and perform intricate gathers and flounces with ease.
3. By adjusting the width of the cut according to the fabric’s density, you have the flexibility to experiment with different variations of the same seam. For instance, to achieve a more polished stitch on thick fabric, you can increase the distance of the cut for the rolled seam; whereas, when working with delicate fabric, it is advisable to reduce the distance.

When purchasing an overlocking machine, it is important to consider the features that will enhance satisfaction. If you have limited use, there is no need to invest in a large machine. However, if you are looking to create exclusive products, it is crucial to think ahead and ensure that the machine has important additional features for overlocking.

The difference between an overlock stitch and an overlock stitch

When it comes to sewing, there are two stitches that resemble a zig-zag pattern: the overlock stitch and the false overlock stitch (also known as the overlock stitch). These stitches serve the purpose of either reducing bulkiness along the edges of a product or finishing off the bottom of various items.

The appearance of the two stitches varies. The overlock stitch is created using specialized equipment such as an overlock or coverlock machine. On the other hand, an overlock stitch (imitation of a seam) can also be done with a regular sewing machine, even with inexpensive models. However, the quality of edge processing will not be as good and, from a professional standpoint, it does not truly mark the edge. This is because a basic sewing machine only has one shuttle and one working needle. As a result, any edge stitch done on such a machine will essentially be a zigzag stitch in different interpretations:

• A traditional zigzag stitch with varying pitch and amplitude;
• A traditional zigzag stitch with an additional stitch parallel to the edge on one side of the main seam teeth;
• A stitch with an extra stitch on both sides of the zig-zag.
• crossing stitches (zig-zag and additional stitch);
• emulating hand edging "across the edge" and diagonal parallel stitches.

Various kinds of edge stitches can be created using the zigzag stitching technique.

An authentic overlock machine operates differently. Instead of a single shuttle, it is equipped with multiple buttonholes that house tucked-in needles. Here, the needles don’t just pierce the fabric back and forth, creating a zigzag pattern on the surface, but they also form a loop that encapsulates the fabric’s edge. In this process, the lower thread not only encapsulates the fabric’s edge but also catches the upper thread, resulting in the formation of a loop. This innovative technology ensures that the fabric’s selvedge remains intact, even if the stitch is done very close to the edge.

Overlock stitching on an ordinary sewing machine

Workshops and ateliers for professionals are equipped with a variety of tools such as sewing machines, overlocks, and more. Each device is designed for specific tasks, and amateur level craftsmen often opt for a simple sewing machine. Having both a sewing machine and an overlock machine can be quite expensive and take up a significant amount of space in one’s home. Therefore, many people rely on their regular sewing machines to accomplish tasks like twisted and serged stitches. Even simple and affordable machines often have stitch options that imitate the results of an overlock machine.

A simple machine, such as one that imitates an overlock stitch, is suitable for the tasks that a non-professional seamstress may encounter. While the machine stitch may not be as perfect, stretchy, or firm as an overlock stitch, there is a workaround. The overlock stitch has built-in knives that neatly trim the fabric’s edge, which the regular sewing machine cannot do. In this case, we must rely on the needlewoman’s precision.

To achieve a smooth and high-quality imitation of the overlock seam, a special foot can be used. This foot has an additional guide that prevents the fabric from twisting and "chewing".

If there is no such device, it is recommended to pass the standard foot at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, note to tuck in the edge and neatly trim. The sequence of actions in this case will be as follows:

• lay a simple straight stitch at a certain distance from the edge;
• apply a zigzag stitch that overlaps the first stitch;
• trim off any excess fabric.

The most common issue with this type of edge treatment is an overly tight seam. Threads that are too tight can break, and skipped stitches may also occur. It is crucial to properly adjust all machine settings.

If a sewing machine is not available, the fabric edge can be manually processed using the aforementioned algorithm.