Types of different stitches on the overlock (roller, flat, rasposhivalnymi)

Needleworkers can create stunning and flawless items with the assistance of an overlock machine. This machine possesses a variety of functions that go beyond simply overlocking the edges, as it also prevents fabrics from unraveling in the cut region. Additionally, it allows for both sewing pieces together and adorning the product simultaneously. These functions are all made possible by the numerous types of stitches available. This article will delve into the specifics of the overlock’s flat stitch, role stitch, and double-sided stitch.

What is an overlock?

What is the purpose of an overlock machine? An overlock machine is used to overstitch the edges of various textile materials, preventing them from unraveling and giving them a polished appearance. This process involves trimming off excess fabric, and some overlock machines also have the ability to stitch different parts of a product using chain stitches. There are different types of stitches that can be performed by an overlock machine:

• Classic stitches
• Decorative stitches
• What is an overlock machine?
• Types of classic stitches

• Two-thread stitch
• Three-thread stitch
• Four-thread stitch
• Five-thread stitch
• Role-playing stitch
• Flat stitch
• Bilateral stitch

Types of classic stitches

The product’s edge can also be processed using a regular sewing machine, although the stitches created by an overlock machine are considerably more appealing and of higher quality. It allows for the creation of 2, 3, 4, and 5-thread stitches.

Two-threaded sergers are specially designed for delicate fabrics, requiring the minimum number of threads. Typically, overlock machines use three threads per stitch, so it’s important to check if this model has a converter. The converter is a special clip that can be attached to the upper buttonhole. With a 2-thread stitch, only one needle and one lower buttonhole are needed. The needle creates stitches from the top, while the lower buttonhole runs parallel to the bottom. The upper buttonhole connects the two stitches together in a spiral pattern. This type of machine can be used with fabrics of any structure.

A picture depicting a stitch composed of two interlacing threads.

Three thread

The most prevalent stitch is the three-thread stitch, which is utilized on both modern and older overlock machines. These machines are the most cost-effective option, as they allow for significant savings in sewing expenses when three threads are sufficient for the desired product. The stitching process is executed using a straightforward technology.

A picture depicting a stitch with three threads.

Four thread

The utilization of a four-thread stitch enables not only the basting of the edges, but also the creation of fabric sewing incisions. This technique is particularly convenient for sewing knitwear, where two needles and two buttonholes are employed to execute the knit stitch. Moreover, it can be utilized on stretch fabrics.

Here is an image displaying a stitch that has been made using four threads.

Modern overlocks use three needles to perform five-thread stitches. This same technique can also be done on a coverlock machine, which has a unique bottom buttonhole for creating chain stitches. This is particularly useful when working with delicate fabrics that require extra care, especially when there is a zipper or a large brooch involved.

Image showing a stitch made with five threads.

Types of decorative stitches

Contemporary overlock models offer a wide range of stitching options, allowing for the creation of one-of-a-kind products. Some of these stitches include:

• Roll stitches.
• Flat stitches.
• Double-sided stitches.

What is an overlock roller stitch? It may also be referred to as a roller or opikovka in certain sources. This technique involves adjusting the tensioner in the overlock machine to achieve the desired effect. The finished result gives the processed edge a curled inward appearance. This allows for the creation of a wavy ruffle. By inserting fishing line into the edge of a skirt, it can become elastic. When this maneuver is used on a petticoat, it can result in a fuller hem. The role stitch is not only used to process the edge of fabric, but also to sew ruffles onto costumes. This type of hemstitch is commonly used in the construction of dance costumes. It complements the decorative elements made of tulle and knitwear.

Illustration of a roller stitch.

The roller stitch is created by decreasing the length of the stitch to its lowest setting and adjusting the width of the stitch. All overlock machines have a specific tongue positioned near the needle plate. While sewing, the tongue is strategically placed so that one side is enclosed by the upper loop and the other side by the fabric. This arrangement prevents the fabric edges from curling and ensures consistent stitching width. To achieve a roller stitch, simply remove the tongue. This will yield a stitch with a minimal width of approximately 2 mm and the fabric edges will be neatly rolled inward.

Flat

Real flat stitching is achieved through the use of a spacer machine, rather than an overlock. The spacer machine creates a distinct sewing stitch that differs from a basting stitch in its formation process. While some overlock machines do offer a flatlock function that produces a stitch that visually resembles a flatlock stitch, true flat stitching can only be achieved on a dedicated flatlock machine. However, these machines tend to be more expensive, making them inaccessible to many. In such cases, an imitation of a flat stitch can be created using an overlock machine.

An example of a flat stitch.

The execution of the flat stitch serves as a decorative function and is useful in the process of embellishing the basting of the bottom and sleeves of a garment. It is also suitable for finishing the edges of thin fabrics, sewing together knitted pieces, and trimming excess fabric. To perform this stitch, you will need a specialized presser foot designed for this purpose. Some models come with this foot included, while others may require a separate purchase. The flatlock stitch can be created with either two or three threads, depending on the capabilities of the machine. The parameters of the stitch can also vary. When using the right needle, you will achieve a narrow stitch, whereas using the left needle will result in a wider stitch.

Bilateral

Flat stitches with topstitching, also known as double-sided stitches, can only be accomplished using modernized equipment capable of handling a large number of threads simultaneously. These threads are woven together in quantities ranging from 5 to 10, resulting in stunning stitches that create beautiful patterns on garments. Double-sided stitches serve a decorative purpose rather than being used for edge markings and are commonly used to create embellishments for clothing.

Given the numerous possibilities and high-quality processing of swatched stitches, it is advisable to invest in an additional swatcher along with a sewing machine if you plan on utilizing the full capabilities of the overlock.

A photograph showing a stitch with two sides.

The overlock machine offers a wide range of capabilities for performing various tasks, allowing for maximum maneuverability when creating swatched stitches. When selecting the machine and selecting the stitching options, it is important to consider the following:

1. If the primary purpose of purchasing the overlock machine is to finish the edges, a machine that works with two or three threads will suffice. However, if you plan on creating products with decorative stitches, it is recommended to invest in a four-thread overstitch overlock machine.
2. The presence of a differential feed option enables the processing of elastic fabrics and the creation of gathering elements or flounces.
3. Due to the adjustable trim width, a single stitch can be sewn in various different variations.