Disassembly and repair of the perforator with your own hands

Just like any other electric tool, it’s important to treat a perforator with care, operate it correctly, and perform regular maintenance to ensure its long-lasting functionality. Failure to adhere to these norms may result in the premature breakdown of the device. Fortunately, some malfunctions of the perforator can be fixed by oneself, while issues pertaining to the electrical components of the motor may require the assistance of a professional.

The main faults of the perforator and their external signs

All malfunctions of the device can be categorized into two groups: mechanical and electrical.

Mechanical breakdowns

If any issues arise with the perforator’s mechanical performance, it can be detected through auditory cues such as increased noise or a grinding sound. In addition, there may be noticeable vibrations or an unpleasant odor emanating from the machine’s body.

Furthermore, the following problems could be responsible for the malfunction:

• A malfunctioning operation mode switch.
• Worn rubber bands on the striker and striker.
• A failure in the percussion mechanism.
• Barrel wear and tear causing machine failure.
• Damage to gear teeth.
• A broken clamping chuck, resulting in the drill bit becoming dislodged.

Malfunctions related to the electrical component of the perforator can also be accompanied by an unpleasant odor emanating from the device’s body and sparking. Additionally, you may observe that the motor heats up rapidly and produces a humming sound without rotating, or smoke may emerge from it.

Electrical malfunctions of the apparatus may include the following:

• The machine fails to power on;
• Damaged starter button;
• Worn out brushes;
• Collector clogging;
• Broken electrical contacts;
• Stator or rotor winding of the electric motor burned out.

Algorithm of disassembly of the perforator

In order to address mechanical and electrical issues (with the exception of the electric plug breaking), disassembling the machine’s body is necessary. Popular brands among both home and professional craftsmen for this purpose include Bosch, Makita, Interskol, and Energomash. The design of these machines from different manufacturers is generally similar, so the disassembly process will likely be alike. However, it is important not to fully disassemble the machine, as it will be challenging to reassemble it. The image below depicts a completely disassembled perforator for reference.

Disassembling the chuck

When troubleshooting, it is crucial to disassemble the machine carefully and inspect each part that is removed. To ensure an easier assembly process, it is recommended to take photographs during the disassembly process. If no external defects are found on the machine, it is advisable to start by disassembling the cartridge.

1. Begin by removing the rubber dust cover (1).

In this situation, the pin remains unchanged. However, in the event of a break, it should be substituted with a fresh one. It is also essential to inspect the sealing rubbers and the glands inside the barrel enclosure. If they show signs of wear, it is necessary to exchange them.

Pistol-type perforators

The design of the percussion mechanism in the pistol-type unit slightly differs from the mechanism of the same purpose installed in the barrel-type device.

One notable distinction is that the piston is set in motion not through a connecting rod, but rather from a rocking ("drunk") bearing. As a result, the most frequent issue with this component is the deterioration of the "drunk" bearing, which necessitates replacement.

Displayed here is an image of a damaged "intoxicated" bearing, which is the cause for the cessation of drilling by the drill.

To remove the oscillating bearing, you can use a flat screwdriver to hook the bracket and detach it. Once the bracket is removed, the bearing can be easily separated from the gearbox housing.

When it comes to replacing a failed bearing, it is important to thoroughly clean the gearbox. This is because fragments of the broken part can potentially get lodged in the gearbox housing.

After performing the cleaning process and successfully installing the fresh bearing, it is recommended to generously apply a layer of lubricating grease onto the unit.

Furthermore, in the event that the device is not striking, one possible explanation could be a damaged striker. To extract it, it is necessary to remove the visible retaining ring from the hole.

With a little screwdriver, grasp the ring and shift it to the right (in the direction of the gear).

Repeat the same procedure on the opposite side of the component. Then, place the screwdriver into the opening and apply pressure to dislodge the internal components of the device.

Once you complete this step, acquiring the retaining ring and the housing that contains the damaged striker will be a breeze.

By dismantling this housing, you will be able to identify the "culprit" responsible for the malfunction preventing the drill from chiseling.

When putting the percussion mechanism back together, make sure to generously lubricate all of its components with grease.

Other mechanical failures and their elimination

Aside from breakdowns associated with percussion, other breakdowns can happen within the perforator.

There are instances where the machine’s mode switch fails to operate. This issue typically arises from the accumulation of dust within the switch. To rectify this malfunction, the switch needs to be disconnected from the housing (refer to the above instructions) and cleaned to remove any dirt. If any plastic components of the switch are found to be damaged, they will need to be replaced.

Gears with a slanted tooth

It is possible that the reason for the machine’s malfunction, specifically, the cessation of drilling and chiseling, could be attributed to the deteriorated condition of the teeth on the rotor shaft.

In the event of such occurrence, the teeth will experience excessive wear and tear and become worn out on the intermediate helical gear.

The issue arises when the device gets stuck or there is a malfunction with the clutch. This can be resolved by replacing both the intermediate gear and the motor rotor, effectively fixing the breakage.

Drill does not hold in the chuck

The reason why the drill is not held by the perforator is due to the chuck breaking and its components wearing out:

• the balls become deformed;
• the limiting ring becomes worn out;
• the fixing spring starts to sag.

To fix this issue, it is necessary to disassemble the chuck and replace the faulty parts.

Drill bit stuck in the drill

The drill bit getting stuck in the chuck of the machine can happen due to various reasons. These reasons may include the following:

1. Not applying lubricant to the shank of the tool before installing it. In such cases, it is necessary to push back the sealing rubber of the chuck and inject WD-40 into the seating area of the tool.
2. Dust getting under the balls of the chuck. The same operation as mentioned in the previous paragraph should be performed in such cases.
3. If an ordinary drill bit is used in the perforator and it is inserted in an adapter, treating it with liquid WD-40 can help. After applying the lubricant, wait for a couple of minutes and lightly tap a hammer on the surface of the clamp. This should help loosen the tooling in different directions. Usually, after these actions, the clamping cams will unclamp and allow you to remove the drill bit.
4. The tool’s shank is not clamped. To start, WD-40 should be poured and an attempt should be made to remove the drill. If that doesn’t work, the chuck needs to be disassembled and the tooling knocked out. Another option is to watch this video for tips on how to unstick a tool from a machine.