Choose a good overlock

The primary purpose of a sewing overlock machine is to process fabric edges with a serger stitch, preventing them from fraying. This function is essential for creating high-quality products from knitwear, stretch fabrics, or delicate materials. Today’s household overlock machines are equipped with additional features that greatly enhance their capabilities, making it a bit challenging to determine which one to choose for home use. To make the correct decision and purchase the most suitable device, it’s crucial to comprehend the operational principles of different models.

For what you need an overlock

• Basting stitch;
• Seams with edgewear and chain stitch;
• Flat stitches;
• Border;
• Underbust stitches.

All of these stitching techniques are utilized when working with knitted, stretchy, or loosely woven fabrics. Seasoned seamstresses are well aware that even the simple act of sewing certain fabrics can pose a significant challenge. This is where the functions of an overlock machine come into play.

The machine produces stitches that stretch along with the fabric. Elastic or non-stretch threads like cotton or polyester are used for processing or stitching. It is important to use suitable threads, specifically designed for the machine, to extend the lifespan of the overlock.

Different models of overlocks offer different stitch options. It is crucial to consider the available stitches when choosing a model. Basic machines offer 3 or 4-thread stitches, while more expensive models provide excellent 2-thread stitches for working with delicate materials or strong 5-thread stitches for sturdier fabrics.

The overlock machine includes a built-in blade, which ensures perfectly even and solidly processed cut edges. This eliminates the need for additional processing after using the overlock.

Overview of the main types of overlock

There are various types of overlock machines available, each with its own specialized features. The type of machine determines the types of stitches it can perform. To ensure you make the right choice when buying a new device, it’s important to evaluate your needs and the capabilities of different models. To make an informed decision and select the perfect overlock machine, take the time to learn about the various modifications available.

On 3 threads

The Simple 3-thread overlock is the most affordable option available for simple basting stitches:

• It features a three-strand basting stitch
• Narrow and wide basting stitches are also possible
• It can perform a Flatlock or Flatlock stitch, including narrow and wide variations
• A 3-thread roller stitch (underbust stitch) is possible
• It is also suitable for hemming

Take a close look at this type of overlock machine when choosing the right model for your needs. It has all the essential stitches necessary for garment and product manufacturing at a factory level. The absence of certain features and stitches found in more advanced models is not always a drawback, as not all users will require them.

On 4 threads

Semiprofessional 4-thread overlock models provide a finishing stitch using the second upper needle and offer a wide range of basic basting stitches, which are also available in 3-thread modifications. This device is specifically designed for multiple purposes:

• Hemming the edges of garments made from loose materials;
• Processing products made from knitted or stretch fabrics;
• Reinforcing areas that experience heavy strain during use.

Often, four-thread models are purchased for sewing covers, overalls, bathing suits, or bags. In addition to the "base" functions, they perform reinforcing stitches with a fourth thread, which is necessary for working with highly stretchable fabrics.

5 threads

The versatile 5-thread overlock is a premium-quality overlock machine. It uses 3 threads for the overlock seam and 2 threads for the straight chain stitch, allowing you to both sew and stitch parts of the product at the same time. The main advantage of this machine is its ability to save a significant amount of time in completing certain tasks. A high-quality five-thread overlock machine can perform five-thread reinforcement and edge stitching, as well as a tambour stitch, which is essential when working with knitwear.

On 8 threads

When it comes to using an overlock machine at home, the purchase of such models may not be justifiable as they are primarily designed for industrial clothing production. Typically, professional-grade equipment offers a wider range of features, including a thread trimmer, embroidery machine functions, fully automatic thread tension adjustment, and, of course, the highest quality of assembly.

For home use or working in a small atelier, an overlock machine with 3, 4, or 5 threads can be used. These models are relatively affordable and the investment in such equipment is well worth it. The choice of which overlock machine to buy ultimately depends on individual needs, but if saving money is not a factor, it is advisable to purchase a model with the most available options.

Whether an overlock needs a converter

The unique metal bracket known as the special converter can be conveniently attached to the upper buttonhole. This attachment provides the ability to sew precise double-thread seams and handle delicate fabrics with ease. The converter can be purchased separately or one can opt for a household overlock that already includes this feature. When utilizing the double-threaded stitching technique, the thread is only threaded through the lower buttonhole and needle.

Various types of stitches are available when using an overlock:

• Narrow basting stitch;
• Flatlock stitch;
• Underwire roller stitch;
• Three-strand basting stitch.

Ultimately, the decision to acquire the converter is left to the individual, based on the specific needs of their work. An overlock can be purchased at an affordable price and the converter can be added at a later time, if deemed necessary.

Overlock conversion tool

Design features of the overlock

When choosing from among the various options and design features, it is important to select only what is truly necessary for the job at hand. While some features may significantly increase the cost of the device, they may actually be of no use unless you have the appropriate financial means.

1. The chain stitch buttonhole feature allows you to create overlock flat 4 and 5 thread seams with parallel straight stitches, essentially using the overlock as a sewing machine. These devices are also capable of performing multi-stranded trimming cuts on the underside and stitching details.
2. Even the smallest details can contribute to a more comfortable working experience, such as color-coded markings on thread guides. This can help prevent confusion when working with different or identical threads, especially during long periods of concentration.
3. When dealing with thick fabrics, the stabilizer’s piercing force is particularly useful as it facilitates the smooth and efficient processing of the cut.
4. The inclusion of a free sleeve or detachable sleeve platform ensures that working on cuffs or pant legs is both quick and comfortable.

Get a free sleeve platform

When considering which overlock to purchase, it is important to thoroughly examine the features of various models. Make sure to create a shortlist of essential functions that will help you make a straightforward decision between multiple options.

Additional overlock option

Aside from its primary functions, an overlock machine can also have supplementary features.

1. Blade disengagement. Normally, the knife trims off excess material while sewing the edges, but this feature may not always be needed. For instance, it may be unnecessary when working with very lightweight or varying density fabrics, when executing decorative stitches, or when handling curved sections.



Conveyor class 51 Overlock

Possibly not all the extra features might catch the user’s attention prior to purchase, but during the course of usage, with increasing expertise, a lot of them will be highly valued. Saving time is a notable benefit for any sewing enthusiast.

Overlock, overlock and embroidery machine



Choosing the right overlock machine is just one of the challenges that users face. When working on certain types of garments, it is necessary to consider additional equipment to complement the chosen overlock. Unlike the overlock, a coverstitch machine only sews the edge of fabric in a folded form and creates a flat seam using 3, 4, or 5 threads. These machines are not designed for trimming excess fabric or creating chain stitches.

In order to have a fully equipped sewing space, even at home, it is recommended to have both an overlock machine and a coverstitch machine. However, many people have found a solution in purchasing a coverlock machine, which combines the functions of both the overlock and the coverstitch machine. In practice, this option only saves space, but not cost. In terms of price, buying a pair of separate overlock and coverstitch machines is approximately the same as buying a single coverlock machine.

The user anticipates potential difficulties when selecting combined equipment. The primary concern is the inconvenience of frequently readjusting the machine for different operations when manufacturing a specific product requires quick changes. This decision is justifiable in cases where production time is not constrained by strict deadlines.

From a professional convenience standpoint, it is more advantageous to choose two separate devices rather than a combined one. It would be optimal to complement a basic overlock with an additional overlock or enhance a multifunctional overlock with a spacer attachment.

When considering a high-quality overlock machine, it is important to also consider the manufacturer. Currently, there are several top brands available, including both Japanese and Chinese options, all of which have garnered numerous positive reviews from users.